The Central Himalaya are the crown of Uttar Pradesh and stand guard to the Upper Ganga plain. The mighty Himalayas standing on the northern frontier of UP are highly rugged and have difficult and precipitous slopes, horned peaks, serrated crests of high ridges, cirques and glaciers, snow clad slopes, hanging valleys, cascades of sparkling water supplied by melting ice, torrential rapids, deep canyons, roaring streamlets, huge boulders and glistening lakes.
When one happens to be in these environs, a deeply hidden longing becomes very pronounced upon gazing at the Himalayan peaks of Uttar Pradesh... the longing to reach up to those awe-inspiring, wonder-filled and dizzy heights that exude a joy on their own.
These cloud-kissing, skyscraping peaks tower serenely above all else creating a picture as only the most adept of all artists: Mother Nature could paint.
The scenic beauty and the grandeur of the Central -Himalayan ranges and the remote location of the religious temples like Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri have excited the interest of people since very early times. In the Pauranik literature, this part of the Himalayas bears the name of Uttara-Khand or Kedar-Khand. Ved Vyasa being attracted to the scenic beauty and religious importance of this region wrote an Upa-Purana about it.
The region and especially the peaks are abundantly referred to in historical literature, indicating that great saints, travellers and kings frequently visited this part of the Himalayas. In fact every peak, rock and rivulet is dedicated to some deity or saint and has an appropriate legend attached to it.
HIMALAYAN PEAKS OF UP HILLS
The lofty Himalayan peaks rising to dizzy heights have a complex physiography falling into three regions. The topography of rugged land and dangerous slopes have often beckoned the spirit of the adventurers. No wonder, many of the peaks have been successfully scaled by mountaineers from the world, over the years.
U.P. Himalaya includes the Himalayan basins of the Yamuna, the Ganga, the Ramganga and the Kali or Sarda. The tangential as well as vertical movements of the terrain have given rise to complex physiography of the region. Thus, the topography consists of highly rugged land with precipitous slopes which, in accordance with its structure and relief, is further subdivided into 3 major physiographic regions.
1. Himadri (Greater Himalaya)
i) Himadri Ranges
ii) ii)Himadri Valleys
2. Himanchal (Lower Himalaya)
i) Himanchal ranges and hills.
ii) ii)Himanchal valleys and lake basins.
3. Shivaliks (Sub-Himalayan tract)
i) Duns
ii)Shivalik ranges
HIMADRI
Himadri, the great Himalayan zone forms the northern boundary of the region stretching in North West South East direction, the average width of the Himadri is about 50 kms. The average altitude of the zone varies from 4,800mts. to 6,000 mts. The important peaks of this region are: Nanda Devi, Kamet, Bander Punchh, Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Dunagiri, Trishul and Nandakot. Almost all these peaks are glacier-garlanded and are separated by transverse gorges of the Alaknanda, the Bhagirathi and the Dhauli Ganga. The important glaciers of the Kumaon Himadri are: Gangotri, Chaturangi, Bhagirathi, Kharak, Satopanth, Kamet, Milam and Pindari.
HIMANCHAL
The central zone of the Himalaya located between the Himadri and the Shivaliks in the north and south respectively, is known as the Himanchal. With an approximate width of 75 kms, the Himanchal is a massive mountainous tract, separated in the south by the 'main boundary fault.' The whole zone is mainly composed of metamorphic rocks varying in age. The average height of the ranges in this zone varies from 1,500 mts. to 2,700 mts. and of the valley bottoms between 500 mts. and 1,200 mts.
Most of the valleys of the important rivers form a wide course. The rivers cut through barriers to drain out lakes, such as the ones in the vicinity of Baijnath in the Garur valley, Agastmuni (Mandakini valley) and around the basins of the Bhim Tal and the Naukuchiya Tal in Nainital District.
SHIVALIKS
A long chain of narrow and low hills, from 300 mts. to 600 mts. in elevation, lie almost parallel to the main ranges of the Himanchal.
The hill slopes are steeper on the southern side while on the northern side the slope is gentler and merged to flat floored structural valleys called 'duns'. The important duns are Dehra, Kohtri, Chaukham, Patti and Kota. The dun of Dehra (Dehradun) is the biggest with a length of 35 kms. And width of 25 kms.
SOME IMPORTANT PEAKS
Lord C. Schuster said of mountains "Always alluding, though they flout you, always dear, though they slay you, they give you strength & friends & happiness; & to have known them is indeed a liberal education. "
NANDA DEVI
Altitude: 7,817 mts.
Nanda Devi, the highest of the Garhwal peaks, which literally means 'Blessed Goddess'. It is considered the pearl of the Himalayas because of its loveliness. The graceful symmetry of its double peaks, the main and the east, thrusting themselves up to the sky, is indeed a visual treat-a rare example of perfect twin peaks. It would perhaps be strange if a mountain of such beauty were not an object of worship. In fact, since ancient times, inhabitants of the region have revered this mountain as a dwelling place of the Gods. The names for mountains and passes in the area often have religious meanings.
Like Kamet, Nanda Devi refused for years to yield to the many climbers who tried to overcome her. It is extremely difficult even to approach her foothills, the entrance to which is guarded by long, deep gorges. After several failures, one party finally succeeded in crossing these gorges and in 1934, entered the south foothills of the mountain.
BANDAR PUNCHH WEST
(White Peak)
Altitude: 6,316 mts.
This peak lies to the South West of Kalanag. In June 1950 JTM Gibson with Tensing Norgay (of Everest fame) attempted it from the south. They were defeated by vertical walls of ice gullies. Once climbed after avoiding the crevasses and on finally reaching the corniced top one can get a view of the steep drop to the southern valley, adjoining ridge of Bander Punchh and distant Swargarohinl peaks.
DEVTOLI
Altitude: 6,788 mts.
The peak lies to the southern most point on the inner wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is on the South West ring of peaks in line with Maikroli & Mrigthuni (6,803 & 6855 mts. respectively).
It is at the Junction where the ridge from the Devistan joins in the south, the ridge between Maikroli & Mrigthuni. So it stands overlooking the sanctuary in the east, Trishul Nala in the west & Sunderdhunga - Tharkot directly below to the south.
Panchchuli Peaks
Altitude : 6,904 mts
It is believed that this is the place Five chulis' cooking hearths) where the Pandavas cooked their last meal on the way to heaven They are majestic and form a famous barrier between Darma and Gori valleys. H. Ruttledge recceed it in 1929. Graaff and Snelson (1950), the Scots (1950) made an attempt from this side. H. Harrer (1952) tried from the west. Finally it was left to two massive expeditions by the Indo-Tibet Border Police to open the route (1972) from the west (Gori valley) and make the first ascent in 1973. On the same divide, a number of fine peaks merit attention, like Nagling, 6,041 mts.
KAGBHUSAND
Altitude : 5,830 mts.
The historic triangulated peak of Kagbnhusand seems to be guarding the entrance of Devban plateau. It has graceful shoulders supporting a delicately soaring peak. The top has a shape of Garud or eagle who is also referred to as Kagbhusand. This peak is seen from a little above Gamsali, from Gupt Khal and even from the Girthi gorge.
TRIMUKHI PARBAT
Altitude: 6,422 mts.
Trimukhi Parbat stands tall proudly to the southwest. The word literally means mountain of three faces, a colloquial name for Lord Shiva. It has sharp ice-pinnacle-like in shape. The possible approach can be via its eastern col which has to be reached via a long detour from the Trimukhi Glacier's southern bifurcation. Both the duration of the approach and the technical difficulties of the final sections often rule out attempts.
TRIMUKHI PARBAT EAST
Altitude: 6,280 mts.
To the east of the Trimukhi Parbat is a good shapely separate peak of Trimukhi Parbat East.
KAMET
Altitude: 7,756mts.
Kamet taken from the word Kangrie which literally means 'lower snows' in Tibetan attracted the first mountaineers.
Kamet Peak is the second highest in the Garhwal and was tried ten times before it fell. The eleventh and victorious climb was headed by FS. Smythe of Britain. One of his companions to the top, R.L. Holdsworth, wore skis up to the col, 7,025 mts. high.
In 1848 Richard Strachy determined its height, followed by the Schlagintweits. In 1855 they went over the Mana pass and attempted it from the north reaching 6745 mts. on Abi Gamin. In 1874-77 the Survey of India under E.C. Ryall and LS. Pocock set up a plane-table at 22,040 ft on the slopes of East Abi Gamin these are now identified on modern maps as Mukut Parbat, Kamet and Abi Gamin respectively.
In fact in 1931, it was while returning from their successful Kamet expedition that Frank Smith and Holdsworth stumbled into the Valley of Flowers.
NEELKANTH
Altitude: 6,597 mts.
Nilkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath. It is popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen' because of it's dramatic sight. No history of Central Garhwal would be complete without a detailed mention of this majestic peak. It is a name of Lord Shiva, presiding over Badrinath and worshipped by millions of pilgrims. It is a tough and challenging proposition for mountaineers.
NANDAKOT
Altitude: 6,861 mts.
This 'Fort of Nanda' is an imposing peak dividing the Gori and Pindari valleys. It was recceed by Dr. Longstaff in 1905 and in 1936 the Japanese made the first ascent. An Indian team in 1959 climbed it again. In 1986 the Indo-Japanese made another ascent to celebrate the fifty years of its first ascent.
SUDARSHAN PARVAT
Altitude: 6507 mts.
Sudarshan Parvat has beauty as well as challenge. It is a sight for the Gods. Situated above the Gangotri temple it has been seen by millions of pilgrims and mountaineers through the ages.
The view from the top is grand. All the Gangotri peaks and valley, a little of Tibet and all the neighbouring peaks can be seen.
CHATURBHUJ
Altitude: 6,655 mts.
Sudarshan has two elderly neighbours. Both the peaks are hidden from view and hence perhaps not known. Otherwise they are both as challenging. Chaturbhuj, situated north of Sudarshan Parvat, literally means 'one with four hands.' This is the name for Lord Vishnu who has four hands and holds the Sudarshan Chakra. This peak has four distinct ridges falling in four directions, thus both mythologically as well as topographically this name is appropriate. The summit of Chaturbhuj is a conical pyramid, very steep, 15 mts. long and 2 mts. high.
YOGESHWAR
Altitude: 6,678 mts.
Situated north-east of Sudarshan Parbat lies Yogeshwar. It takes its name from Lord Krishna, in a serene mood and thus can be aptly applied to this high snowy peak.
SAIFE
Altitude: 6161 mts.
South-south-east of Sudarshan Parbat lies a gentle yet deceptive peak. Saife in local language means 'sword' or the weapon carried by Lord Ram, who is also known as the God with the white complexion Swetvarn. This peak lies near Koteshwar 'God of the Edges'. Thus with sword edge-like ridge, the name is appropriate.
CHANDRASHILA
Altitude: 3,679 mts.
Chandrashila is most accessible peak of the U.P. Himalayas, especially since most of the peaks are difficult to scale. A climb to this mini peak in Chamoli district is arranged by Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN). This combines scaling, skiing and trekking through a route of rich flora and fauna, lies, meadows full of fresh snow in the winter months. The Chandrashila peak itself provides a rare panoramic view of innumerable snow clad peaks.
SOME IDEAL PLACES TO VIEW THE MAGNIFICENT PEAKS:
BADRINATH : Guarded on either side by the two mountain ranges known as Nar and Narayan with the towering Neelkanth peak providing a splendid backdrop. Badrinath is one of the 'four dhams' of the country and is situated at an elevation of 3,133 mts. above sea level.
KEDARNATH: A scenic spot, situated against the backdrop of the majestic Kedarnath range, the Kedarnath shrine is one of the twelve 'jyotirlingas' of Lord Shiva.
YAMUNOTRI :In the shadow of the high Bandar Punchh mountain lies the source of the sacred river Yamunotri. At an elevation of 3,235 mts above sea level, this shrine is of paramount religious importance for Hindus and an essential pilgrimage.
VASUKITAL : Offering an excellent view of Chaukhamba peak, the Vasukital lake is surrounded by high mountains and is situated at a height of 4,150 mts. above sea level.
GANGOTRI: Surrounded by the mountain peaks of Shivling, Satopanth and Bhagirathi sisters, this sacred shrine situated at an altitude of 3,200 mts. is the source of the River Bhagirathi.
KEDARTAL : The mighty Thalsagar (Spatikling) peak forms the spectacular backdrop to the Kedartal Lake which is negotiable through a rough mountain trail.
NANDANVAN : From here tf1e views of Shivling, Bhagirathi, Sudarshan, Thalu peaks and Kedar Dome are fabulous.
VALLEY OF BHILANGANA : The Khatling Glacier is a lateral glacier at the source of the River Bhilangana. Shastratal and Masartal are on the west and east of it. The Valley of Bhilangana offers panoramic views of the snow capped peaks and hanging glaciers, such as Jogin Group, Kirti Stambh and Meru Parbat which are sublime and magnificient.
GUPTKASHI: From here one can get a magnificient view of Chaukhamba peak.
MADMAHESHWAR: Engulfed by Chaukhamba, Kedarnath and Neelkanth peaks, the trek from Kalimath to Madmaheshwar is distinguished by wild unparalleled scenic beauty.
RUDRANATH : The temple situated at an elevation of 2,286 mts. above sea level, provides magnificient views of Hathi Parvat, Nandadevi, Nanda Ghunti, and Trishuli peaks among others. The face of Lord Shiva is worshipped here.
HEMKUND SAHIB : Situated at a height of 4,329 mts near the Valley of Flowers is the holy lake of Hemkund, associated with Guru Gobind Singh. Encircled by seven snow-clad peaks and their associated glaciers, the crystal clear serene waters of the lake reflect the enchanting surroundings.
AULI : The cable car from Joshimath to Gorson via Auli, offers a picturesque view of the Himalayan ranges. 15 kms from Joshimath at an elevation of about 2,500 mts-3,050 mts. Auli is an ideal venue for winter sports.
PAURI : Situated at an elevation of 1,814 mts above sea level on the northern slopes of Kandoliya Hills, it provides a panoramic view of the snow clad Himalayan peaks of Bandarpanch, Swarga-Rohini, Jonli, Gangotri Group, Jogin Group, Thalaiya-Sagar, Barte Kanta, Kedarnath, Kharcha Kund, Sumeru, Satopanth, Chaukhamba, Nilkanth, Gauri Parbat, Haathi Parbat, Dronagiri, Nanda devi and Trishul.
GWALDAM
Gwaldam is a sylvan Himalayan quaint town surrounded by fruit orchards. One can have a magnificant view ofNandaghunti, Trishul and Nanda Devi Peaks.
CHAUKORI
The charming and picturesque town of Chaukori is situated at an elevation of 20 I 0 mts. in the heart of Pithoragarh district, close to the famed Jim Corbett Park. Chaukori is famous not only for the magnificent view it offers of Panchchuli, but also for its breathtakingly beautiful sunsets.
PITHORAGARH :
The easternmost hill district of Uttar Pradesh, Pithoragarh is often referred to as "Miniature Kashmir". It is situated at an altitude of 1650 mts. above sea level. From the Chandak hill located at around 2000 mts., one gets a Himalayan scenery comes alive. The view of the snow covered Trishul and Nanda Devi is so clear that one gets a feeling of the snow being within touching distance.
MUNSIYARI : The centre as well as the Gateway of Johar region, situated at an elevation of 2289 mts. Munsyari offers Panoramic view of the snow capped peaks of Panchchuli.
KAUSANI : Nestling among thick, dense pine forests atop a narrow ridge and separated from the towering mountains of the Nanda Devi range by low, medium mountains; at Kausani the grandeur of the Himalayan scenery comes alive. The view of the snow covered Trishul and Nanda Devi is so clear that one gets a feeling of the snow being within touching distance.
BINSAR : Binsar is one of the most scenic spots in the Kumaon Himalayas and an acclaimed hill resort. The main attraction of Binsar is the majestic view of the Himalayas. A 300 kms. stretch of fa11)ous peaks which includes Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Trishul, NandaDevi, Nanda Kot and Panchchuli.
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NAINITAL Nainital, at a height of 1,938 mts., is situated around a blue lake which is shaped like an eye or crescent.
Surrounded by thick forests of pines and deciduous trees, the Naini Lake resembles a silvery disc held in cupped hands.
Peaks surrounding Naini Lake include Tiffin Top (2,611 mts.), Laria Kanta (2,481 mts.) and Snow View (2,270 mts.).
RANIKHET : A cantonment of immense charm, Ranikhet was selected as a hill station for British troops and accordingly the cantonment was established in 1869. Ranikhet provides magnificant view of the Chaukhal11ba, Kedarnath, Kamet, Hathi Parvat and Panchchuli Peaks.
ALMORA : Perched atop a 5 kills. long saddle shaped ridge of the 16 shaya Hill, Almora at an altitude of 1,646 mts" is a charming mountain resort il1 the Himalayas providing magnificant view of snow capped Chaukhamba, Neelkanth and Kamet Peaks.
CHAMPAWAT : Situated 1,615 mts. above sealevel, Champawat was originally the capital of Chand Rajas of Kumaon and is now the district headquarter. Champawat is famous not only from historical, sculptural and archaeological point of view but also for its abundant scenic beauty. From here the view of Panchhuli ranges is unique.
SITALAKHET Sitalakhet is a scenic spot commanding a view of the majestic Himalayas. One can get a panormaic and magnificient view of Chaukhamba, Kamet, Hathi Parvat, Trishul, Nanda Devi and Nandakot Peaks.
